Watch Comparison: Helm vs. Cadisen Aqua Diver

I expect this one to be a bit divisive. When it comes to watches, I have my hands in a few communities on Reddit, with the ones being relevant to this review being r/chinesewatches and r/microbrandwatches. In the last decade, I've enjoyed watching both industries enjoy tremendous success and growth, carving out new spaces in the watch collecting world. Many Chinese watch companies have worked hard to shake off the reputation of Canal St. knockoffs and are producing compelling original designs with impressive finishing at multiple price points. The microbrand space has allowed smaller brands to establish more niche design languages and take more risks than legacy brands - as consumers, we are now spoiled for choice. 

Before I get further into this review, I’d like to share a bit about my entry to the hobby of watch collection (and obsession). At the time I was slinging lattes for a well known coffee chain. Thanks to a combination of Reddit, watchuseek forum posts, and Instagram, I began to develop a thirst for the finer things in the watch collecting world. A Tudor taste on a Timex budget, Panerai preference on a Pagani Design paycheck. These were unobtainable to me, but I still needed a watch, and it absolutely had to be an automatic. After much deliberation and advice from kind internet strangers, I made my first watch purchase - the venerable sxk007. I could wax poetic about how amazing the watch is, how it will never leave my collection, etc., but to put a point on it, I was a kid who had found a hobby they wanted to participate in and was able to do so because there was an affordable option, and a damn good one to boot. If the hobbies we love are to continue to grow, they need to remain accessible to the next generation. 

That kid also grew up burning CD’s with MP3s downloaded off Napster for his friends. Mixtapes with uncleared samples were popular, South Park, Professional Wrestling, and Punk Rock were all part of the cultural landscape that fostered a healthy disdain of authority. We were all laughing, because after all, we wouldn't download a car. That latte slinging kid is no longer slinging lattes, is older and debatably wiser, but there is still a streak of that punk rock ethos from his formative years.

And now we can move on to the recipe for grandma's secret cornbread. I mean the watches. 

Helm was founded in 2014 and has somewhat of a cult following. Initially stationed in the USA, they are now based in Hong Kong. Their unapologetically bulky design language and functional tool watch ethos isn't for everybody and that's ok - not everyone has to like everything. I’m a huge fan of the brand, and prior to the release of the three Togiak variants this August, I owned a variation of every watch in their lineup. Their watches are only available for purchase through a waitlist or lottery system - it is still a small operation and they produce a limited number of watches each month. Their watches also pop up on the secondary market, and trade at slightly above or below retail depending on condition. Depending on the model, they cost between $295-$375+ shipping, and if you want a massive slab of titanium or steel around your wrist, I don't think there is better value out there. Despite being such a small company, Helms customer service is top tier, their QC is excellent, and they stand behind their products.

Cadisen was established in 2013 in Shenzhen, China, and other than that, I know next to nothing about the brand that isn't listed on their website. Their catalog consists mostly of homages with a few original designs sprinkled in, and they are on sale frequently on AliExpress for between $50-$100.

On to the specs: the Helm Komodo is 40mm in diameter, 45mm including the crown, and has a lug to lug of 47mm. The height, including the domed sapphire crystal, is a massive 15.5mm. The case is made of 316L steel and has a brushed finish. There is a signed screw down crown with crown guards that sweep gently out from the case. In my configuration, the dial is a matte white surrounded by a matching chapter ring. The indices, hands, and bezel are all a pale blue and color matched well. The 120 click bezel is lumed on all markers and turning it is stiff but not overly so; it requires intent to operate and feels like a true tool watch. From a tactile perspective, the clicks are snappy and loud.  Helm is well known for their lume and this watch is no exception: All lumed components glow brightly with BWG9 for hours and the lumed date wheel is a nice touch. It is powered by the NH35 movement and costs $295 + shipping. The watch is ISO 6425 compliant, meaning it meets certain durability criteria, and boasts a water resistance of 300m. The bracelet is in a simple single link style but is solid, articulates well, has snug fitting end links, and a milled clasp that balances the heft of the watch head and has 5 microadjust holes. 

The Cadisen Aqua Diver is 40mm in diameter, and has a lug to lug of 45mm. The height is 12.5mm including the flat sapphire crystal. The case is made of 316L steel and has a brushed finish. There is a signed screw down crown with crown guards that sweep gently out from the case. The dial and chapter ring on the Aqua Diver are a metallic white vs the matte of the Komodo. The blue color scheme of the Komodo is also present, but in a darker shade of blue. If you’re a F1 fan I’d say the bezel especially is fairly close to the Mercedes/Petronas livery. The 120 click bezel turns with very minimal resistance, and is much lighter both in terms of volume and operation. As for lume - only the 12-o-clock pip has any. The hands have decently bright blue lume but the indices only give the faintest suggestion of a glow. It is powered by the NH35 movement and I was able to snag it on sale for around $50. It claims a 100m water resistance.. The bracelet is in a simple single link style, articulates well, has snug fitting end links, and a milled clasp that is very light and has 3 microadjust holes.

To address the elephant in the room - the Cadisin is a near 1:1 copy of the Helm, and not having to do original designs allows them to sell their products significantly cheaper. This ethical discussion is not the intent of this discussion and I own both so I can't claim any moral high ground. To paraphrase the late Virgil Abloh, you know you’ve made it when they start counterfeiting your stuff. So as much as I hate to see one of my favorite microbrands get their design ripped wholesale, its a testament to their success and I’ll continue to support Helm as a brand.

On to the comparison - off the bat, I have to say the Cadisen Aqua diver is going to be the more wearable watch for most people. The 15.5mm height, especially with the stout diameter, gives the Helm a very hefty feel, whereas the Cadisen wears much more like a traditional 40mm dive watch. Dial is going to be subjective - the silver/white of the Cadisen is different from the Matte of the Helm, and they both look good. Lume is no contest, Helm by a mile and the pics will show why. Crystal on the Helm has better clarity and AR coating, but is part of the 15.5mm stack that is the Komodo. I prefer the bezel feel of the Helm, but some may enjoy the fidget factor of the light action of the Cadisen more. Bracelet and clasp again go to the Helm, they are well weighted and balance the heft of the watch head well. The Cadisen is lighter and just doesn’t have the solid feel of the Helm - it's also harder to dial in a good fit with the 3 microadjustments on the clasp. But credit where credit is due, the bracelet is perfectly wearable and the endlinks are solid and there's no rattle. 

They are both good watches at their price point and I think offer tremendous value. I’m not writing these reviews to give consumer advice because there are plenty of people who do that already; I’m here to share my thoughts on my collection journey and talk about watches I like. So, with that being said, I’ll close this piece with another story. I thought that when I got my hands on the Helm I would get rid of the Cadisen - I bought it as a place holder in my collection after all. But I have kids. And they already are picking up on the watch bug - they like helping dad pick out his watch of the day, picking out straps from the big box of NATOs, and they already have a few cheap kids watches. Eventually, if everything goes according to plan, they are going to want to wear a watch that matches dad’s. I’ll be holding on to this for that moment.