San Martin SN085-G Review

Hi all - just getting started on my watch review journey so I wanted to start with this cool San Martin variant - the SN085-G. The watch comes in two color ways - light red/grey and deep red/black. This review is about the light red version.

There are a lot of similarities with the rest of its siblings in the lineup AKA the "B" version - but also does a few things differently, and in my opinion, better.

Let's start with the measurements - all of the SN085 family case share the same dimensions. 40mm width, 48mm lug to lug, and a thickness of 13.5mm which includes the domed sapphire crystal - very well proportioned and wearable. I particularly love the way the domed crystal flows into the curve of the bezel - a small detail but something that elevates the feel of the watch.

The case is brushed with polishing on the sides, very nicely done and in line with what one would expect from San Martin. The lugs have a sharp, angular design that adds a touch of ruggedness, contrasting nicely with the polishing on the case without making either feel out of place. There is a screw down crown at the 4:00 position, protected by crown guards that flow nicely from the polished case - also angular without being disruptive. 

The lugs are the first change the G variant has from it's siblings - in stead of the traditional spring bar setup it has drilled lugs with a screw in bar - an interesting design choice that adds the toolish aesthetic that begins with the lugs. 

The bracelet on the G variant is a well made and in the blocky engineer style - which compliments the angles of watch that start with the lugs and allow it to continue through the rest of the watch. The other watches in the B configuration have a hybrid mesh strap, and while I am sure it is perfectly serviceable, it doesn't match the lines of the case the way the engineer does. In my opinion, this was a questionable design choice and a step in the wrong direction - the G version feels like a much more cohesive design. The clasp is milled and well finished but alas, no on the fly adjustment - my only complaint of the watch.

The 120 click bezel is excellent - no alignment issues and nice tactile snap as you turn it. There is some angular scalloping along the bezel, which functionally makes it grippier and easier to turn and aesthetically reinforces the angular motif throughout the watch. The bezel insert is a lovely shade of red - a nice, bright racy color. Unfortunately, only the pip at 12 is lumed, but not a major deal. No difference in the bezel or insert from the G and B versions.

The dial and handset are another area in which the G variant stands out from the rest - it has lovely rounded indices with a very modern looking tapered handset. The minute hand is red and the second hand is lumed. The B variant appears to adhere to more traditional San Martin design language - long straight hands with blocky indices. Everything is covered in generous amounts of BWG9 lume, and while I wouldn't consider it a torch the application suits the watch just fine. The enamel dial is lovely - it's just the perfect contrast to the red in the bezel. It's not too shiny or reflective, it's just right.

This is completely subjective but I think the D dial and hand configuration is better. The circle indices give more space for the grey enamel dial to shine, and the hands give a sort of Scandinavian vibe - the red minute hand is playful while never sacrificing legibility or function. The B version dial seems more cluttered, and the handset is less interesting after seeing in on other models in the San Martin lineup.

All in all, I think this is one of the better original designs produced by San Martin. The changes between the G and B variant are questionable, and I think an overall step backwards. The fact that the G variant appears much less frequently on the secondary market I think speaks to it's appeal.

The San Martin catalog is deep and often things get released with little fanfare or announcement - I think this variant definably did not get the attention it deserved on release, and it's truly got something special going on. This piece definably has a permanent spot in my collection.